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The Twain Hath Met

by David Courtney working tools

This arti­cle ori­gi­nally appeared in the July/August 1988 issue of Light News (Vol. 1, No 5), Houston, TX

It is a November night like so many others in the south In­dian city of Hyderabad.  Everywhere one turns, peo­ple can be seen at­tend­ing to their af­fairs; shopkeepers selling their wares: men standing around and gossiping at the corner panwala, slowly chewing the fami­liar concoction while oc­casion­ally spitting a blood-red mix­ture of tobacco juice and paan at the nearest wall.  Women are covered from head to foot in the typical black burkha, scolding their chil­dren as they walk along the footpath.  Everywhere the air is a comfortably cool temperature, perfumed with the musky scent that is typical of India.

I am traveling in an older model car with two compatriots, one is a Telugu man who owns a printing com­pany.  The other is a Maharastrian who is a bank employee by day, but by night is a high ranking member of a secret so­ciety.  The car passes Nampali station and moves on toward Gosha Mahal. We are proceeding toward the headquarters of this organization.

We stop at an impressive piece of architecture.  I am told building has been headquarters to this Brotherhood since it was given to them by the Nizam of Hyderabad.  We pass into the building and my attention is attracted to two mas­sive marble tablets inscribed in Persian.  Everything stands as si­lent testimony to the centu­ries that this Brotherhood has existed.  Passing fur­ther, everywhere the mystic symbols of this ancient order may be seen.  Everything reminds me of the stories of their secrecy.  I re­mem­ber rumors of the horrible death by mutilation which is supposed to be meted out to interlopers.  I wonder if I should be here at all.  As we move into the darkness, up a flight of mas­sive stairs, it be­comes ob­vious that outsiders are sel­dom al­lowed this far.  We emerge into the light and continue down a corridor, where I see three elderly men sitting at a table dis­cussing their business. Soon they be­come aware of my pre­sence. They smile and welcome me to Deccan Lodge num­ber 20, the lo­cal Masonic Lodge.

Oh. East is East and West is West and never the twain shall meet.”  These immortal words of the fa­mous Freemason, Rudyard Kipling, perhaps never have been disproved more eloquently than in the si­tua­tion of Freemasonry in India.  Freemasonry is an ancient order which has existed in Europe for many centu­ries.  Its origins lay in the bands of craftsmen who traveled Europe du­ring the mid­dle ages, constructing chur­ches and other pub­lic works.  Their phi­lo­sophy of Brotherhood and free thought did not rest well with the es­tab­lished re­li­gious ins­titu­tions of the time. They were, therefore, driven underground.  This is the origin of their de­sire for secrecy.

European im­pe­rial­ism in the last two centu­ries car­ried Freemasonry with it. The first Lodge in India was es­tab­lished in 1730 in Calcutta.  The contact Eu­ro­pean Freemasonry was having with non-Christian religions was indeed a tre­men­dous test of the principle of brotherhood.  But those principles were stronger than the Imperialistic or chauvinistic at­ti­tudes of that period.  Today the Gita, Koran, Zend Avesta and Guru Granth Sahib are all on even footing with the Bible In In­dian Masonic lodges.

We have be­come used to re­pre­sentatives of Eastern orders coming into the West and establishing philosophic footholds.  Freemasonry is an example of a Western esoteric phi­lo­sophy establishing a si­mi­lar foothold in the East.  In small way we can say that after centu­ries of separation the East and West are philosophically blending. The twain hath met.


Selected Video


Other Sites of Interest

Freemasonry and the Indian Parsi Community

From Britain to India: Freemasonry as a Connective Force of Empire

Thje Philalethes Society

All in the Family: Freemasonry and the British Empire in the Mid–Nineteenth Century

Constructing the “brother”: Freemasonry, empire, and nationalism in India, 1840–1925